2012 Around Australia: Day 122 - 129 14th June

Day 122 Thursday 14^th June 2012.

We left Quobba campsite around 8.30AM. Our general destination was towards Exmouth. However nothing is set in concrete on this trip. We generally travel between 300-350k’s on the days we do travel. Vania had heard and read a lot about Coral Bay and the Ningaloo reef and she really wanted to see them. We decided to head into Ningaloo homestead as we read and heard there were great camp spots right on the beach. We had also read that the road was badly ccoorruuggaatteedd. As we turned into the dirt road sure enough there was a sign warning about corrugations. Being the intrepid adventurers we are we continued on. It was “only” 32 k’s to the homestead. Well the book was right and the sign was right. Poor WDU564 and the caravan were almost shaken to bits. Need to use super glue to patch things up. Bit of an exaggeration.

Dump ass me ignored the signs to register at the homestead and thought I be smart and find a camp spot. Well I was outsmarted. The “farmer” had the campsites fenced off and padlocked. What made this all worse was that I had already driven about 16k’s with the caravan on these bad roads. Bit the bullet, unhitched the caravan outside one of the gates (not in the way) and went back like a good boy to register. Left Vania holding fort.

Finally got back after registering like a good boy, hitched up and with key in hand proceeded to our allocated campsite. This “cocky” is very, very smart and efficient.

Our camp site is absolutely fantastic. From our front door we overlook a much protected bay and the water is only 30 metres away. The bay is protected as there is an outer reef where the continental shelf runs. For those that don’t know the Ningaloo reef is Australia’s closest reef to the mainland. It is literally a good stone’s throw from the mainland. The waters are constant temperature (very mild) all year round.

Majestic eagle. Note the fawn colours on the wing.

Termites nest, straight up thru a car wreck. Very powerfull termites.

Sunset at Ningaloo campsite.

Vania found out how to operate her "panorama"option on her camera. Fantastic

View from our doorstep at Ningaloo campsite.

Life is beautiful!

One of the creatures trying to get a feed of termites.

Termites nest. Between 5-7 feet high and LOTS of them (near Ningaloo).

Day 123 Friday 15^th June 2012.

We decided that we would go into Exmouth only by car. The caravan was safely locked up. Instead of going out the same road we came in, we decided to go via the “track” as it was only 27k’s long. After this track it was onto bitumen. Well it may have been only 27k’s long but it took us 1hour and 25 minutes to reach the bitumen. WDU564 was amazingly good. There were sections that I could only drive at walking pace. Thank God I didn’t bring the van. The track actually went through defence force land where they practice target shooting via aeroplanes. Luckily they weren’t practicing on the day we choose to drive thru.

We finally arrived at Yardie Creek which was the bottom end (southern) of the Cape Range National Park. We had heard that if the tide was in at Yardie Creek we would either have to wait for the tide to go out or turn around and go back. Fortunately the tide was out and WDU564 did some pretty good rock hoping to get across.

Along the coastline of Cape Range National Park there are many campsites which are managed by the Department of Environment and Conservation (DEC). This is where we were heading initially but heard that you had to queue up and wait for campsites to become available. No thanks.

Saw the sights that this coastline had to offer, visited Exmouth (very commercialised for the holiday makers), bought diesel, topped up gas tank and cleaned the toilet canister. Yep, the canister came with us on the “bumpy” ride. I made sure that the canister was well and truly covered before it went into the back of WDU564.

Arrived back at our campsite, having travelled down the corrugations again. The people behind us have been camped here for 7 weeks already in a HUGE bus. They also have a Toyota tray diesel and a largish boat. He drives the bus and the wife drives the car towing the boat. Expensive, double fuel. Anyway, these are lovely, lovely people. They had been out “netting” and caught about 7-8 very decent size mullet. They gave us 2 for dinner. Absolutely fantastic.

Coastline near Ningaloo campsite.

We actually drove thru this section of army land. Am I glad they were bad shots!

Another panorama shot

Osprey's nest on top of communication tower.

Need I say more!

Sunset with panorama.

The breakers in the background is where the continental shelve meets. Inside the breakers is calm and this is were the Ningaloo reef is.

Kighthouse near Exmouth

Looking down onto one of the many caravan parks in Exmouth.

Houdini is really getting about now!

It is absolutely GREAT snorkelling up this way.

Many, many varieties of birdlife.

Now, is this a goat or a sheep. Vania calls these "shegoats". Somebody has been "mucking" around

Day 124 Saturday 16^th June 2012.

Today was planned to be a “veg” out day around the campsite. Well we started our relaxing day by taking a very long walk along the beach and back. About a 2.5 hour walk. Vania and I collected shells. Returning back to the caravan we decided to go snorkelling. We had been told of a good spot and when we got there, there was a young man with his best mate (his dog) who had set up a reasonably permanent camp as he was staying here for about 9 months. He was on a disability pension and this is his way of saving some money. Anyway, this bloke liked to talk and talk and talk. Finally he told us of a much better spot to snorkel. This however meant walking about another “k” or so.

We finally decided that we had walked enough and it was time to venture into the water. The water temperature was great. As we were walking out to a sandbar, hawk eyes (Vania) thought she spotted a “dugong”. As it turned out it was an old mooring covered with seaweed. Wishful thinking on Vania’s behalf.

The coral and the many different varieties of tropical reef fish were absolutely amazing. We swam around for a good 30-40 minutes before we had enough.

Back to camp and we decided to try our luck at fishing. Not a single bite. Couple of lost sinkers and hooks but no bites.

Back to camp to stoke up the Cobb oven as we are having a roast with vegetables tonight.

For a day that was meant to be a “rest” day we both feel very tired. However, it is a nice tired feeling. Vania said she could do this lifestyle for an extended period. Wouldn’t surprise me if at some point later on she will.

Back out onto the corrugations (YUK) tomorrow and heading inland to Karijini National Park. We have purchased a 12 month national parks pass as we intend to stay in a lot of national parks in WA.

Panorama shot of beach near Ningaloo campsite.

Just a smll shell collection.

Found this along the beach. Must belong to "Jaws".

Petrified something. Almost looks like timber of sorts. Many of these embedded into rocks.

OK, another "arty farty"

Pee Pee's (I think). Boy can these run along the beach with their tiny feet.

Day 125 Sunday 17^th June 2012.

Sunrise woke us to another beautiful day in paradise. Unfortunately today was a day of moving on. Packed up reasonably early and started along the “track” at 8.30AM. Our camp site was 16k’s from Ningaloo Homestead and we needed to go there first to collect our $100 bond money for the keys. Told you this cocky was switched on.

It took us 3.25 hours to travel 48 K’s. I do think that today I had a much better attitude towards the “ccoorruuggaattiioonnss.” We took our time and WDU564 handled the corrugations a lot better. Maybe I understand to take our time on bad roads as we don’t “have an appointment”. Each day is a learning experience.

Onwards inland to Karijini National Park. We always knew we would not make it there in 1 day because of the bad road at the start in the morning. Travelling along fine on our way to “Tom Price” (known for its iron ore mining) and low and behold a truck passed us and a stone chip hit the window. I cursed of course and Vania tried to calm me. She tried to be philosophical and said we will probably get a lot more before this trip ends. Well, honestly it only took 3 minutes after this that a small sedan over took us like he was late for his appointment and BANG. Stone hit the window and then a crack appeared. Crack is 8-9 inches long at the moment but I wouldn’t be surprised if it gets longer as we travel along. Have decided to report it to the insurance but won’t get it fixed till later on in our travels.

Pulled up at about 4.00PM at another “free” 24 hour campsite (House Creek) along the road. Fairly small, could only fit 6-7 caravans comfortably but is nice and secluded, has long drop toilets and the highway is not too busy (I hope). Managed to back the caravan into a very good spot by ourselves. Now that Vania and I know the rules of “In, Out and Height) I should not have a problem getting out in the morning.

Tomorrow it is off to Karijini National Park. Have seen some fantastic photos of this place and hopefully we can find and enjoy them. It is rather good to have a change of scenery from the beautiful ocean views that we have had over the last week. Sorry to rub that in but this is REALLY a beautiful country and the people in it are absolutely fantastic.

Lovely sunset with a panorama shot.

Owner of Ningaloo homestead is trying to make this light house a world heritage listing. Be great for business.

Out on the road again!

The wildflowers are absolutely magnificent.

View from a bridge near a roadhouse. Nice to see water in creeks / rivers.

Can you spot the crack. WDU564 has been hurt! Won't do anything about it till towards the end of our trip.

Very rocky and very, very red.

Is there anyone out there?

The red soil of the Pilbara gets into everything. I mean EVERYTHING!

One of our free campsites along the way. There were only 4 of us in this site overnight.

Another one of the fantastic wildflowers

Boo! Mother Osprey.

SHEGOAT. Is there such a creature as half sheep, half goat?

Too busy minding his own business to worry about us

Day 126 Monday 18^th June 2012.

Morning woke and we thought we were early birds, everybody else (3 others) had packed up and moved on. The Grey Nomad army stops for no one.

On our way to Karijini National park, stopped at Nanutarra roadhouse to get some diesel. Only put a small quantity in (twice) because the price was expensive and I was positive I could top up at either Tom Price or Paraburdoo lot cheaper. Driving along WDU564 was working hard and the fuel gage was dropping very quickly. I bit the bullet and said to Vania that I didn’t think we could make it to the next fuel stop pulling the caravan. Suggested that I unhitch the van and see if I could get fuel. This was approximately 50k’s outside of Paraburdoo. Left Vania looking after the caravan. I must admit I felt very guilty doing this but the last thing I wanted was to run out of diesel. If I had done that, that could have really played havoc with the fuel injectors in WDU564. As it was I only just made it into Paraburdoo.

Well this little exercise cost us 1.5 hours of travelling. Hitched up the caravan headed into Paraburdoo and TOPPED up this time with diesel (yes it was cheaper but it wasn’t worth the stress). Quick lunch at Paraburdoo “shopping centre” (ha, ha, ha) and then off to Tom Price. For those that don’t know this part of Oz is very much iron ore country. There are mining vehicles everywhere. In Tom Price we saw a train, owned by Rio Tinto, which was in excess of 3k’s. There are up to 7 of these trains everyday heading out from Tom Price, Paraburdoo and Newman to Port Headland where it is processed and shipped of shore. Oz is being excavated very, very quickly.

Due to our slight delay (caused by stupid here) we got into the Karijini Campsite at about 5.45PM which is rather late for us. Found ourselves a really nice site, reasonably away from others, set up basic camp, had tea, played cards and of to bed. Long day of driving and I was feeling “knacked” (for those that don’t know what “knacked” means I was very, very tired. Tomorrow we are doing lots of walks in the park.

Two young bulls testing each other out. Great to see.

Fantastic scenery.

Scenery near Karijini national park (NP)

Mine had a blast near Paraburdoo

Hello from Houdini!

The size of the trucks wheels are much higher than my car. These are HUGE!

Morw wildflowers.

Road leading into Karijini NP.

Day 127 Tuesday 19^th June 2012.

Lovely quiet night. Morning is very “nippy” in the outback. No cloud cover to keep the heat in. Up and at it. Karijini is divided into east and west sections. We are camped in the east section and decided to do the Fortescue Falls, Circular Pool and Fern Pool walks. Started our walk about 8.30AM and finished roughly about 12.30PM. We did however have a few “rest” stops.

I will attempt to publish some of the FANTASTIC spots and views that we saw. Unfortunately a photo does not really do this part of Oz. justice. It is absolutely beautiful. The peace and tranquillity is superb. Words cannot describe how great this place is. For those of you, who are thinking of travelling around Oz., please don’t miss part of the country. I can guarantee you will not be disappointed.

I was brave (or stupid) enough to have a swim in Circular pool as well as at Fern Pool. The water temperature at Circular Pool was “icy” cold. I certainly felt awake and alive after this. Fern Pool was much warmer. There were 2 beautiful waterfalls into Fern Pool and I swam out and let the waterfall pond on my back. It was a pleasant change not to have Vania pond on my back (just joking). We relaxed and lazed around Fortescue falls like lizards soaking up the glorious sunshine. Hate to rub this in but the temperature up here is a very pleasant 26 degrees Celsius. What’s the temperature in Melbourne?

Went to the visitor centre up here, found out that you can have a shower for $2.00 (unlimited bore water). Shouted ourselves to ice creams and back to camp for a restful afternoon getting ourselves ready to take on the walks in west Karijini. Vania has taken the opportunity to go back and have a shower. In the mean time I am slaving over this “blog”.

Absolutely fantastic scenery!

Monkey in the tree!

"Arty Farty" ripple in the pool.

Reflections of how life used to be. Hmm, could be great words to a song!

Shit it is cold in hear!

This was no walk in the park. Had to meander up, gown, over and under rocks and trees and through water.

Panorama of pools.

Fern Pool. Beautiful clear water. Icy cold.

Can you see the waterfall and pool? Vania and I lounged around the waterfall like lizards for quite a while. Catching vitamin"D".

One of the many beautiful pools (think this was at Fortesque falls)

Plenty of water.

Beautifull pools in the gorges.

The water colour is absolutely fantastic. The reflevtions were great as well.

More of the same!

And more!

Pictures and words cannot describe the beauty of these places.

Will to survive!

Head em up, roll em out, cowboy. Steel sculpyure at the Visitors centre in Karijiji NP.

Another "arty farty"

Day 128 Wednesday 20^th June 2012.

Another beautiful morning in paradise. It is lovely to fall asleep looking up at the galaxy of stars at night and wonderful to wake up to birds chirping away and the beautiful sunrise. This life style beats the standard run of mill things in life.

Although this is paradise I still have a phobia about the dirt roads with corrugations. From our campsite to the western side of Karijini NP it is all dirt roads. I had my hopes raised as the first part of the dirt road was being graded. This was relatively good driving. However, the grader only does about 8-10k’s at a time. After the grader had stopped them bloody corrugations returned. I have yet to decide if going slow (ie 15k’s per hour) or going faster (ie 70-80k’s per hour) is the way to go. Going faster seems to “skim” across the top but the chances of tyre damage are greater.

OK, enough of the “C” word. The first walk this morning was at Kalamina George. This gorge had a waterfall cascading into a lovely pool at one end and “Rock Arch” at the other end. To get to the waterfall we had to “claw” our way on the edge of the cliff face which was about 5-6 feet straight into the pool. Very challenging but worth it. We spent time taking “millions” of photos and then went to the opposite end of the gorge. Although we believe we did not get to the final destination the scenery along the way is absolutely superb. All the way along we were doing “rock” hopping. We headed back to the waterfall where both Vania and I had a very, very refreshing swim.

Onwards towards “Eco Retreat”. These were very elaborate tents with obviously ensuite as well. Only drove around the resort before heading onto Oxer and Junction Pool lookouts. These were very spectacular as we had a top view of the various gorges. There was a grave site at Oxer for an SES volunteer who went down into the George to help some people who got themselves into trouble. Unfortunately at about 4.00AM the gorges flooded from nearby rains and the volunteer got swept away and lost his life trying to save others. These gorges can become raging torrents of water whenever rains occur. The rains do not have to happen in the immediate area for the gorges to become extremely dangerous.

Vania prefers to go down to the gorge floor instead of the top, so off we went to Handrail Pool. Well, it only took about 3 minutes walking before we had to do a water crossing in the gorge. We saw a family and dad was swimming taking each child one after each other. We ascertained that it was possible to walk on the edge of the George however this was in water about 3-4 feet deep. This made crossing this section difficult as we had our “gear” in a backpack which I had to hold above my head in order it did not get wet. Our cameras and satellite phone were inside the backpack. Very, very challenging.

Having crossed this section it was a “walk in the park” (not really) to the Handrail Pool. To get into the pool area we had to go thru an opening no wider than 3 feet and at least 50-60 feet high. In the middle of this opening, water was running between our legs. Very slippery. At the end there was a “handrail” that had been put in place with steps also put in place. We very, very carefully went down to the pool. It was almost a perfect circle about 35-40 feet in diameter, with sheer cliff walls about 50-60 feet high. The pool looked very deep in spots. This last section of the walk was rated as 5. Not bad since the highest rating is 6 and these must be done with a professional.

I have gone into a lot of detail; however words and photos cannot really describe how beautiful these places are. It is also a great experience to challenge ourselves in the adventures we are having. I have to acknowledge my companion in how adventurers she is (or has become).

Enough for today. Tomorrow we pack up the caravan, hitch her to WDU564 and of again to wherever the roads lead us. At this rate this adventure will take much longer than 12 months.

Sometimes flat........

Sometimes rocky......

Sometimes beautifull fresh water pools. Variety is the spice of life.

More water pools and cascading water

One of the many challenging spots we encountered walking into "Handrail Pool"

Pool at "Handrail". If you look carefully you can see the steel handrail behind my back.

Some of these gorges are 80-100 feet high.

Dare I say another pool?

Yet again.

Looking down into pools. This lookout would have to have been over 100 feet high.

Many gorges running into each other.

Narrow passge way we had to walk thru. Spectacular!

Now you can see the handrail plus the steps that have been bolted into the rock face. We had to climb down this to get to the pool.

Day 129 Thursday 21^st June 2012.

On the road again! Left Karijini NP about 8.30 heading towards Chichester Millstream NP. Bought fuel at roadhouse and was going to take dirt road in NP. However missed the turn (didn’t really want to drive on dirt roads today) and ended up going towards Port Headland. Vania was very keen to see Python Pool in the NP so we compromised and I agreed to drive back about 230K’s into NP.

The road leading into Port Headland was crowded with mining road trains (long vehicles with 4 huge carriages). Iron Ore is mined at Newman, Tom Price and Paraburdoo and then trucked or trained into Port Headland to the BHP site to be further processed before being shipped overseas.

The terrain changes very often from mountainous to flat to rocky outcrops.

We turned south and stopped at a 24hour site on the Yule River. We pulled in about 145PM and the small campsite was already nearly full. I have been reasonably proud of backing in the van however today of all days when I had an audience I “stuffed” it up a bit.

I think this spot has Telstra coverage so I will be able to collate and put together the stories and pictures and publish.

Till next time, take care from Vania and Oscar.