2012 Around Australia: Day 144 - 147 6th July

Day 144 Friday 6^th July 2012.

Up and early out of our little hide away spot. Very, very quiet overnight. Almost “spooky”.

Hit the Gibb River Road; unsure about the condition of the road. Turn off from Derby to Windjana Gorge was bitumen approximately 55-65 K’s long. So far so good. Dirt road, initial reaction was YUK This section went for about 10K’s, then another bitumen stretch and then another dirt stretch. I have been on much worse dirt roads. Actually the last 20k’s into Windjana George was the worst Arrived safe and sound (no blow outs) and set up camp.

After “de-stressing” we went for a walk into the Gorge. Beautiful shaded walk with water throughout the Gorge. I was really looking forward to having a swim; however I noticed that I would have had company, LOTS of company. I have seen fresh water crocodiles before but not as many nor as LARGE as in this Gorge. Decided not to be a hero and gave the swim a miss. Vania was having conniptions on me been so close to the Crocs. By the time we returned Vania was overcoming her fear a “bit” as she was nearing the Crocs as well. I know I sound boring, but once again a fantastic part of the country. Get with it guys and come and see for yourselves.

This campsite has “flush” toilets as well as hot showers, very civilised. It is great to have a shower after spending most of the day in the fine Kimberley red dust. Dust gets into everything. Got the portable gas stove out and had lovely steak (eye, if you don’t mind) with Vania’s fantastic potato salad. Game of cards. Beaten yet again, gets a bit monotonous getting beaten all the time so early to bed.

I’m tossing and turning to go to Tunnel Creek or not tomorrow. 90K’s return on rough dirt roads doesn’t do much for me at the moment. Hmm, need to loosen up!

Till next time, take care from Vania and Oscar

Part of the walk at Windjana Gorge.

Lovely walk along the river bank, with "crocs" all around

Fresh water crocodile.

Not just one! Lots and lots

Fresh water crocs have a very "sharp" snout.

"Crocodile Bocskay" with a HUGE maneater in the background.

River gorge walk

Notice the sharp snout (and lots of sharp teeth)

Reflections

Plenty of fish for the "crocs".

Day 145 Saturday 7^th July 2012.

Very restless night as I was thinking about our “travelling” options on these roads up here. Do I drive 90K’s on rough road to Tunnel Creek? Do I go back the way I came? Do I go on a road that people have described as “rough? What are my fuel options? Etc, etc,…..

I suppose I’m nervous knowing that the car is really not up to the standard that I would have liked it to be on going on some of these roads.

Bit the bullet and went to Tunnel Creek. Road was actually better than the 20K’s coming into Windjana. Arrived at Tunnel Creek and proceeded to do the 1.5K return walk in a cave system where we would be walking in and out of water up to just past our knees. Forgot to bring a good torch and relied on a head torch which almost had flat batteries. Despite this we managed our way through the cave system often following others who had good torches.

This walk was absolutely fantastic (again). The water was icy cold, we saw stalactites and stalagmites. I bought a pair of “rock shoes” in Broome and these were great to walk in. Must thank Vania for suggesting them.

Decided that I would use this road to get to Fitzroy Crossing instead of looping back via Derby. I was told that there are 2 river crossings where the water is 400-500mm deep and that if I took it easy I should be OK. The biggest probable that I encounter in getting advice from others is that everybody has different ideas of what is good / bad or otherwise. Suppose I have to have faith in WDU564, the caravan and us that the universe (and St. Christopher) will look after us. I believe I drive reasonably responsibly and drive to the conditions.

Cheers for now, till next time, take care from Vania and Oscar.

One of the many Hawks / Kites / Falcons in Windjana Gorge

Our campsite in Winjana Gorge.

Lovely river walk

High cliffs in Windjana Gorge

More reflections.

Sunset in Windjana Gorge

Walking thru "Tunnel Creek". No I haven't wet my pants. Walk thru water.

Crystalisation in Tunnel Creek.

The "end" of our Tunnel Creek walk. Walk was about 750 metres long in pitch black and water often past our knees. Great experience.

Opening to "Tunnel Creek"

This section of Tunnel Creek collapsed. Great home for "bats".

Cliffs around "Tunnel Creek".

Walking thru the water in Tunnel Creek. It would have been lovely to have a strong torch.

Rock face inside Tunnel Creek.

Remains of the "police station" outside Windjana Gorge.

Day 146 Sunday 8^th July 2012.

Out early from Windjana Gorge. Had approximately 85-90K’s of dirt road to contend with. Won’t bore you with the details however there were 5 “water” crossings and 2 “detours”. The very first “water” crossing was probably the most challenging. The issue is not really the depth of the water (approx... 300-400mm deep) but the approach and departure angle. Once committed to a path you cannot stop “midstream” to revaluate. Back of the towbar grounded heavily but fortunately no damage. One thing I will say about dirt roads is that they are very, very inconsistent. One section was almost like a bitumen highway and another was as corrugated as “hell”. The only damage we had was that the toilet / shower door came off its hinges. Will repair when we get into Kununurra.

Anyway arrived at Fitzroy Crossing and topped up with diesel. OK it is late Sunday morning but I noticed a large number of aboriginals sitting under the shade of many trees. They looked like “lost souls” to me. Have to be honest I was disappointed in Fitzroy Crossing township. Somehow I was expecting more and the “township” consisted of IGA supermarket, post office and that was fundamentally it. We went to the Fitzroy River Inn where we had our compulsory drinks and meal. Cost of food is very expensive here. A beef burger was $22.00.

After lunch we drove to Geikie Gorge which is only 18K’s outside of town. Obviously catered to take “tourists” on boat trips up the Fitzroy River. The Fitzroy River is the “bloodline” to this part of the world and in the wet session it must look absolutely spectacular. Vania and I walked for approximately 4.4K’s. It was great to get out and stretch the legs. I would have liked to have fished in the Fitzroy River as I reckon there would be a few “Barramundi”.

Onwards to find our “free” campsite for the night. There are several “rest areas” in this part of the world that offer toilet facilities. We pulled into Ngumpan Cliff rest area about 4.30PM (which is late for us) and there were already 12-14 “free” loaders as well. The toilet facilities are the WORST I have seen so far on this trip. Will have to use our own toilet for number two’s if required.

Onward towards the Bungle Bungles tomorrow. Till next time, take care all from Vania and Oscar.

Road into Winjana Gorge.

Reflections of the cliffs on the Fitroy River.

Panorama reflections.

Reflections and reflecting!

Vania loves taking photos of birds. Very cute.

Sunset, taken from a "free" campsite on the "cliffs".

Dirt roads everywhere in this part of the world. Corrugations are well hidden.

Amazing rock structures.

Houdini is really getting about.

"Arty Farty" flower shot

Day 147 Monday 9^th 2012.

Very quiet night in the “free” campsite except for us making a noise with our generator. Having a few electrical problems at the moment. Additionally the door to the toilet / shower in the caravan come off its hinges travelling along on the 80-90K’s of “lovely corrugations. By the time we get back to Melbourne I think I would have rebuilt the caravan (just joking). There are some issues even in paradise!

Off and early heading towards Halls Creek and beyond to the turn off to Bungle Bungles (approx. 110K’s past Halls Creek). We had a short stay in Halls Creek and had lovely coffee and toasted raisin bread. Meet a lady who looks after young joey’s who have lost their parent. The indigenous people around here are allowed to shoot kangaroos. That’s how this lady ended up caring for the joey. The indigenous people are encouraged to shoot only the male kangaroos but this does not happen all the time.

The landscape around this part of the world is amazing. It changes so quickly and so dramatically. One stage travelling thru flat arid terrains with “forests” of ant / termite nests, to rolling hills with scrubby bushes / trees between 2-5 metres high to extremely rocky hills. Constant change.

We arrived at the caravan park at the start of Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungles) with the intention of leaving the caravan 2-3 nights while Vania and I camped out at the NP. Everything you read and everyone you talk to advice that you don’t take your caravan. I was told initially that it would cost $20 per night. On enquiring at reception they wanted to charge us $35. Watching our “pennies” Vania and I decided to go back 3k’s to a “free” camp spot. We are going to lock up / chain the caravan and we will go into the NP for 1-2 nights. Speaking to a few of the campers here this seems to be a normal thing to do.

Huge couple of days / nights coming up. Vania is looking forward to tenting. Apparently the “road / track” into the Bungle Bungles is challenging. Numerous deep water crossings and the road goes up / down / sideways and every which way. Will keep you posted.

So till next time (if we survive) take care in “blog” land from Vania and Oscar. Cheers for now!

PS: Sorry that there are not too many “spectacular” photos today. Will make up with photos from Bungle Bungles.

Just a quick note from Vania to all her Loved ones – “I have not stopped loving you but Optus has!! I have not had reception since the 13^th of June and I promise that the minute I have some I will phone each and every one of you. Love you all lots and miss you heaps.” Oh and remember if you ever do a trip like this the only service provider is Telstra. It hurts me to say that but it is true.”