Hi All,
Sorry for no post for such a long time, however we have been to The South Australian Outback and I think it is honest to say we are "Deserted Out". Well enjoy the blog and I will try and update with the last few days tomorrow, Oh and because the internet is soooooo damn sloooowwwww I swill upload photos for the days I have written below over the next few days. Sorry but it is driving me nuts and I don't have enough Alchohol to keep me sane.
Day 52 Thursday 5th April 2012
Well the Nomads are on the move again. I keep saying to Oscar I feel a little like a snail carrying my home on my back. Well we have had a little stress this morning as Oscar lost some sleep again last night worrying about how he was going to get the van out of the camp spot we had chosen. Again another lesson for us; one we are slowly learning. We find ourselves what looks like a terrific spot; a) to get into and b) to settle into but what we have been neglecting to do is think about c) is it easy to get out of. Well, all being said; we managed just beautifully and after getting out it was a huge smile, high five and a big hug for each other. The relief was evident on both our faces.
We had our showers after which we left. We headed for Blinman as this was our last possible place to buy some stores for the Gamma Rangers more specifically Arkaroola. I have got to get into the habit of every time we are in a city or town of some note to buy extras for the times we are in remote areas as the cost is astronomical. Anyway we stocked up met a young couple who are on their second lap around Australia and the more I think about it the more convinced I am, I will go around again. Have to convince my partner in crime.
The journey was slow going as the majority of the road 153km was dirt road. Not bad dirt road, in some places a bit too much corrugation though. The terrain changed a lot as we travelled in some places Oscar would ask me how I would describe some areas on the blog and at one spot I said “just change the trees you see to thorn trees and add a few Giraffe, Zebra and Buck and you have an African landscape”. I did feel a little melancholy then as I did not realise how much I actually miss the African Landscape.
We arrived at our destination approximately 3:30pm and setup our home. The flies are appalling, seriously!!! Al…… “Thank you so much for the Fly Swatter, damn has it come in handy. Can’t tell you how good the fly culling machine works”.
Had an early dinner a good shower and settled down to bed.
 |
| A grave site on a remote stretch of road |
 |
| A river crossing |
 |
| "Kiss Honey" |
 |
| The road into the Gamma Ranges North flinders |
 |
| "Nooooooo Thanks" |
 |
| Home for the next few nights. |
Day 53 Friday 6th April 2012
Today we had planned a drive around the local spots to get
our bearings and to find the treasures that we find no matter where we have
been on this wonderful adventure. Our
first stop was the Ochre Wall. It was
here that Oscar finally fulfilled a need he had to find the rock that turned to
powder that he had read of that the Aboriginal people used for their face/body
decorative paintings. We then moved on
to Lively’s Gold find, followed by Jasper Twins, Welcome Pound, Stubbs
Waterhole which we both thought was the treasure of the day. Oscar had a good swim in the waterhole while
I just splashed water over myself to cool down.
I don’t have to tell you how damn hot it is out here and the flies, man
the damn flies. We saw two majestic Wedgetail Eagles in the crags above us at Stubs waterhole and we tried really hard to get a good picture, but with them being so high up, the best we could do was a fantastic silhouette of them. After cooling off at what we thought was probably the WOW factor of the day we decided to take a walk to Barraranna Gorge. I am eternally grateful we did. It was spectacular. Not only did we have another cooling down in the waterhole in the gorge but we had some fun as well. See the pics of “Mr Arkaroola 2012” below.
Much refreshed and really happy we had found our treasure for the day we headed back to camp and had a great shower made a light dinner and settled down to some cards and then bed; all in all a terrific day.
 |
| The Ochre Wall |
 |
| Silhouette of the Wedgetail Eagle |
 |
| Mr Arkaroola 2012 |
 |
| Barraranna Gorge |
 |
| Sunset Arkaroola |
 |
| Moonrise Arkaroola |
Day 54 Saturday 7th April 2012
After we had accomplished this we were still amped and decided to do Griselda Hill which was not a long walk but a fairly steep uphill to the top of the closest hill to the Village. We got approx. 75% of the way up and I had an attack of nerves regarding the downward trip on a steep and rocky incline, neither of us able to afford a broken leg/bone and so we turned back.
When we returned back to camp we decided to hop in the vehicle and do some of the other sites in the area as we had pretty much seen what was on offer in the area as we would be travelling on again the following morning. So off we set for the Pinnacles, Bolla Bollana Springs and Nooldoonooldoona waterhole. Although both Bolla Bollana Springs and Nooldoonooldoona were both pretty awesome in their own right we both agree that the Barraranna Gorge was the true spinner for both of us in this region. We returned to camp about 3:00pm and went off to do laundry. The next stop I promise I will get pics of Oscar and I doing housework like two married people. He really is a saint in that way, always helping me to get things done.
 |
| Sunrise Arkaroola |
 |
| Acacia Ridge View |
 |
| Skimming Stones at Bolla Bollana Springs |
 |
| Waterhole at Nooldoonooldoona |
 |
| Yes that's it, trying to be a pro. |
Well “up and at em” early this morning. We have quite a journey ahead of us. We packed up home as normal and then moved the van and car into a safe location so we could have our final shower before hitting the road again.
Well great…… Oscar walked right on in and had a shower. I on the other hand was turned back at the ladies as they had a problem with the plumbing. I was told to use the men’s. I went over to the men’s to wait for Oscar to come out so he could stand guard for me while I used the men's. There was a gent waiting outside and he said “if you’re game enough there is another lady in the men’s”. He was standing guard for his wife when Oscar arrived and entered and he didn’t know how to stop him.
Well just then she comes out and is so embarrassed, she said she did a dash. We stood and spoke for quite some time as they were from Sale and I mentioned I knew Bev and Brian and Henry. I asked whether they did Rock ‘n Roll and he said his brother does with Lakeside Rockers. Anyway just then a bloke pops his head out of the gents and “says there is a free shower for you in the gents” needless to say I politely declined. Not long after the ladies was sorted and I could go and have my much sort after shower.
Shower under belt we set off. We were headed for Farina Ruins Campground. This is located just past Lyndhurst which is just past Leigh Creek on the highway but we had to go via Copley. We went into Leigh Creek and being Easter Sunday everything was shut. Oscar put in 20litres of fuel as we had heard that if we could make it to Lyndhurst we would get discounted fuel there. After the fuel refill Oscar made contact with his family and spoke to his Mum, Boys and Daughter in-laws as well as his little man “Ollie” and Ollie’s Nanna Sue.
We then headed for Lyndhurst. We stopped off at the hotel in Lyndhurst as this was the place that offered the discount diesel (11 cents a litre less) on the Strzelecki Track. We went in for a drink and a hamburger. Had a number of embarassing moments over the next two days but that is for when I see you.
We arrived at Farina 2:30 and setup camp. If you think I have seen flies you have got to be joking….. Oh My Aching Nerves!!!! Well get used to it baby, as this is the Outback. After setting up Oscar went off the scan the facilities as he always does and whilst I was sitting there cursing the flies I heard a beautiful bird sound and looked up and to my delight there was a family of Budgies in the tree right in front of me about 3 metres away. Well needless to say I now have dozens of photo’s of budgies, one specific family.
Oscar returned and informed me the toilets were flushable toilets and the shower was a “donkey” driven shower. To explain you have to light a fire under the boiler and this heats your water. This is apparently what they used to call a “Donkey” in days gone.
Anyways to end the day we had an early night, light snacks as the Hamburger at Lyndhurst was really good and it was big.
 |
| Budgies having a little love session. Okay, its probably Mom feeding young uns, but forever the romantic.  |
 |
| Houdini on the Birdsville Track. |
 |
| Home for the next two nights |
Day 56 Monday 9th April 2012
We didn’t have to rise too early as honestly there is not
much to see out in this part of the world.
We had ruins to see of what remains of Farina, that used to be quite the
town in its day on the Old Ghan line, but today the only people that live at
Farina are a couple that own it and are trying to restore the old town and of
course the campers that come through on their way to heavens knows where.Had a problem with the loo needing manual flushing and a queue of dear old people needing to go but again thats for when I see you. After I had gone back to the van and told Oscar my story, who sat there and laughed till he cried, we decided that we would go for a drive into Marree and see what was there and speak to the locals regarding roads further up north.
Marree….. well I could have had a job as a bar lady there if I wanted. Timing is just not right however. Damn that would have been a fantastic experience. After a lunch and drink at the local pub we head back to Farina to take a walk around the ruins.
Spoke to a lovely English couple who have been in Australia for 4 years and who live in Adelaide. They have the most exquisite potbelly potable stove. “On my list of things I would like to own”. Again had an early evening as tomorrow we wanted to be up very early to see the sun rise, then to pack up and leave everything ready to go, pop into Leigh Creek for a big shop as things are really expensive to buy in the little town roadhouses as they call them. Then back to Lyndhurst for a top up of fuel back to Farina pick up the van and off to Coward Creek.
 |
| Farina Ruins |
 |
| More ruins |
 |
| I've been everywhere man.... |
 |
| The pub at Marree - could be employed there |
 |
| Relics - both of them |
 |
| The outback method of drinking a good wine - spot the protein in the glass. |
Day 57 Tuesday 10th April 2012
As planned up very early to see the sun rise. This never eventuated as there really was nothing spectacular to watch unlike the previous morning. We packed up and left everything ready to go, popped into Leigh Creek and did a big shop. After that we headed back to Farina hitched the van and headed out.
The drive to Coward Creek was monotonous to say the least. We did have a Wow factor and that was as we topped a hill and there it was Lake Eyre South with water in it. Apparently you don’t see this often so I really do feel honoured that in my lifetime at least I have experienced this. But and here she goes again “Oh my GOD!!!!! The bloody Flies” It seems the further north you travel the worse it gets. I kid you not just look at the photos.
We took some happy snaps but you will notice we are now becoming really accustomed to the very fashionable headgear, and then back on the road again to final destination Coward Springs. We arrived at approximately 3:45pm and setup camp amongst the cough, splatter and cursing of flies.
I had decided that tonight I was going to make curry for dinner. I really needed some home cooking. We ate our wonderful home cooked meal played cards and settle down for the night.
 |
| Water in Lake Eyre South |
 |
| Lake Eyre in the background |
 |
| The infamous Dog Fence |
 |
| Gorgeous Smile |
 |
| Home for the next 2 nights - Coward Springs |
 |
| The Donkey |
 |
| Beautifully clean facilities - Long drop but clean |
Day 58 Wednesday 11th April 2012
We didn’t really have to get out of bed today. Honestly the flies are not worth it. We sat in bed for a while this morning just
chatting and playing Sudoku. Got up
approximately 11:00 and decided to take a walk, fashionable headgear on, to see
what was in the area. We found a history
room which told the story of Coward Springs which again existed due to the Old
Ghan Line. We then went and found the
“Spring”. There has to be Wow factor no
matter how insignificant. This Spa which
is erected over a natural spring is approximately 24degrees and is a marvellous
Oasis in the middle of what would otherwise be a bleak desert.We went back to the van and decided to go and have a dip later that afternoon, as there were people having a dip. I decided to do the blog while Oscar did some maintenance. At 1:30pm we headed down to the spa for a dip. What a truly a remarkable dip in a natural warm spring, the only hinderance was those pesky bloody flies. After the dip we returned to the van, I completed the blog to date and Oscar continued with his home maintenance. We later went for a shower in the Donkey shower which I must admit was way better than the one at Farina. At Farina I declined to use this facility as it was shared with two toilets. I used our facilities instead. I will also say that the toilets and showers at Coward Springs are the cleanest I have experienced on the trip. They may be slightly antiquated but they were clean and that counts in my books more.
I warmed our leftover Curry and Rice for dinner and after dinner Oscar made a lovely fire for us to sit around and gaze at the multitude of stars. It is the first fire we have had as all the other places we have stayed open fires have not been allowed as these are banned from November to April each year due to fire risk.
After a wonderful quiet evening star gazing we tucked in
ready for our move deeper up into the Outback of South Australia.
 |
| Taking a dip in the Coward Springs spa |
 |
| Cannot even take a damn dip with out the headgear |
 |
| The Spa |
 |
| The Flies - mild |
 |
| The Fire just right for star gazing |
We rose really early this morning not because we had set any
alarms; it just seems out here there is no time to sleep. Even the mornings that we have not gotten out
of bed late haven’t been because we have slept in. We have generally been awake early but have
decided to chill awhile in bed chatting or playing Sudoku.
We packed up, had a last shower and were on the road. We were trying to get to Algebuckina Bridge
as we were led to believe there was good camping there. I guess the person that told us that didn’t
need shade and didn’t know about the flies.
It seems the further we travel up north the worse the flies seem to be
getting. We stopped off at the bridge
and yes it did have a lovely waterhole, but there was no shade and the flies
were killing me. I swear they almost
carried the van away. Change of plans; as we do every so often; head for
Hookeys Waterhole just 7km’s out of Oodnadatta.
At first we couldn’t find the waterhole and then found we should have
turned off and headed towards Coober Pedy.
So we swung around and went back to look for the waterhole. We found it, but again it seems to be shut to
public, so we headed on into Oodnadatta.
There was a caravan park there that we thought we would check out. By the way if you ever do this trip, find
another way to Dalhousie if you can.
Oodnadatta wanted to charge us $32 for the night and we wanted to leave
the van there another night and just drive up to Dalhousie and camp out for the
night. My personal opinion; I haven’t felt that depressed since I left South Africa the last time. I wouldn’t leave the van there let alone stay there for a night. We popped into the Transcontinental Hotel to talk to the proprietors regarding the road conditions to Dalhousie. The owner Brenton was a lovely man. His wife was the biggest sour puss I have come across since this journey started. I can almost understand why she chose Oodnadatta to live it really suits her personality. Meoow!!! Sorry couldn’t help that. Brenton was quite happy for us to park our van behind his pub so we could travel up to Dalhousie without pulling it and return the following day to collect. Hell we were even prepared to pay but “Oh no”, she was not having a bar of this. Anyway we decided we were going to head as far as we could toward Hamilton Station before the light of day faded on us and then we were going to pull over on the side of the road and sleep the night out in the middle of nowhere. That was preferable to spending the night at Oodnadatta.
Well we pulled over at approximately 5:30, about 25km of the 91km stretch to Hamilton Station and setup as best we could. We did not de-hitch the van as we were only going to be there over night and then move on as early as we could. From what we understood from talking to people the road to Hamilton Station was fair, however the road from there to Dalhousie was going to be tough going.
I made us a “spagbol, side of the road recipe”, and I caught the most awesome sunset I have caught this trip to date. I tried to take it from within the van but knew that I would have to brave the flies and get out, to get a decent picture. Oh by the way just for your information the flies go to bed at 7:00pm then the mozzies come out to play.
After this we settled down with a game of cards early bed.
 |
| William Creek Pub - just stopped off on the way through - too early for a beer. |
 |
| Algebuckina Bridge |
 |
| The flies are getting worse the fiuther north we travel |
 |
| We stopped off on the side of the road for the night - view from bedroom |
 |
| Start of Sunset from bedroom |
 |
| Too majestic not to brave the flies for a decent photo |
Day 60 Friday 13th April 2012
Rose and were on the road by 8:10 this morning. It took us from 8:10 to 10:00 to travel the remainder of the 66km’s to Hamilton Station. My faith in people was redeemed here what a nice friendly bunch of people. They would have let us leave the van there overnight had we taken up the offer, but after Oscar heard that the Easter Travellers were pulling their vans through to Dalhousie without a problem he decided we would keep going. They let us fill our water tanks for nothing and told us they were setting up a camp ground and accommodation for travellers such as ourselves, but were waiting for the plumber to get out there to connect the facilities which were already built. So if you are ever going to do this trip I would recommend this as the place to stop on your trip to Dalhousie.
We only had another 69km’s to go. Well as Oscar put it, it was the worst 69 he has ever had to do. We had the worst creek crossings to do and we broke our electric loom cable when the dip we crossed was so steep the car scrapped the bottom and the plastic casing of the loom broke. Thankfully Oscar realised that we would have done this immediately and stopped. “Stupid here”, that’s me, sees a bent pin and tries to straighten it and you guessed it, broke the pin off altogether.
“Thank you Oscar for being the sweetheart that you are”. I think had it been any other man I would have been blasted. I know I would have lost my sense of humour. Anyways we tucked the cable up and off we set again. The 69km’s seemed as though they were never going to end. Damn Dalhousie had better be worth the effort. Dalhousie was my “I want to see” spot. So I was responsible for any damage we picked up on this part of the journey.
At approximately 1:30 we pulled into Dalhousie. To tell you the truth the saying “Never judge a book by its cover” comes to mind. I was really not excited at all when we pulled up into what seemed like just another dust hole to me. Anyway did not voice my disappointment to Oscar; helped him setup camp. I spent the next couple of hours just cleaning out dust from cupboards and didn’t get through too many when Oscar asked if I wanted to go and take a dip in the reason we came this far north. “The Hot Springs”!!!!
Alright this is a definite Wow. The waterhole which is a natural spring runs at 37degrees right throughout the year. My kind of swimming!!!! Nice and hot. It is just like getting into a bath of lovely refreshing hot water. We must have spent about an hour swimming or just sitting talking, discussing our dilemma. How were we going to get out of here? We definitely did not want to return the way we came.
When we returned to the van Oscar started mixing and chatting to all and sundry regarding the roads, which route they had taken and more importantly which was worse the way we came or the road to Mount Dare. Decision taken after chatting to the American the road to Mount Dare was worse than the road we had come and better the devil you know then the devil you don’t.
Warmed up the leftover of the “Spagbol” from the previous night had a game of cards and bed time. We were both extremely weary.
 |
| The desert after rain - not much of a desert |
 |
| Caught a dingo alongside the road |
 |
| Oscars favourite plant - the Stuart Desert Pea |
 |
| Houdini having a blast |
 |
| Now that looks like desert |
 |
| The dust we are collecting on our way across the desert |
Day 61 Saturday 14th April 2012
Last night the Dingo’s howled right on through the night. It wasn’t this that kept Oscar awake but rather the worry of getting out of this region safely when we left on Sunday. He asked every camper that he came across this morning about which way they had come in and there were conflicting reports. Eventually he spoke to a bloke who convinced him that the road to Mount Dare was possibly better than the road we had come along from Hamilton. There were no undulations but it was a fairly rocky road, rocks about 15 cm in size. Our thinking was if we could head on out of Dalhousie via Mount Dare it would be quicker/shorter on the dirt roads than going back the way we had come.
After this we went for a long swim, in the reason we came here in the first place. I will tell you, after the swim, my skin felt fantastic; my hair not as good, as I am still battling with the dead hair from the effort of trying to be “low maintenance”. After this we returned to the van; I to continue writing the blog and Oscar to fix and clean the car and van so he can keep his mind occupied; so as not to worry too much about what lay ahead of us. I thought I was a worry wart; well me thinks I am not so bad after all.
Tonight will be another night with the dingos. We have re-hitched the van and will have the van in a ready to shut shop and move out state tonight. We want to be on the road by 7:00am or as soon thereafter as possible. We will drive very slowly through to Mount Dare. From there the roads will be a lot better and we can relax.
 |
| Natural spring with 37 degrees |
 |
| Dalhousie Monster |
 |
| Drying out after a good swim |
 |
| One of the locals at the spring |
 |
| Enjoying the water |
Till tomorrow I hope
O&V
No comments:
Post a Comment